Hints and Tips
Is where I will file snippets of useful info:-
Setting Saddlers Rivets
My good friend Debs just phoned me for advice on setting copper rivets - as she is making Christmas presents for her children and driving to Devon to be with family, I thought I could knock up a quick tutorial for her and post it here. Apologies for the quality of the photos which I took wit the phone for speed.
The tools you will need
Make a hole through both pieces of leather which the rivet will just fit through
Insert rivet from rear
The Rivet tool is called a rivet setter - as you ‘set’ the rivet,
It has a hole just bigger then the rivet stem and a dimple.
Put washer on top of the stem with the curved side of the washer uppermost.
Using the hole in the rivet setter tap with the hammer until the wash goes down stem and touches the leather
Using sips or pliers cut stem off 2-3mm above washer.
Place the dimple over the end of the stem tap with a hammer several times to peen over the end of the stem onto the washer.
A firm surface is needed below the rivet to act as an anvil - a brick will do.
Three or four taps should see a beautiful domed head trapping the washer to the leather.
These are virtually indestructible so do make sure you have everything in the right place before finishing the setting.
Basic Leatherwork Tool Kit
In pulling my travel tool kit together it focused my thoughts on the essentials a beginner needs and what to advance to in the way or tool purchases.
Below is my tool box with the essentials/desirables to get started in Leatherwork.
From top to bottom and left to right
Scalpel, Safety skiver & spare blades, No 2 edge beveller, 1.75” diamond Awl (home made handle), scratch awl, round pot of copydex glue, Pot of Gum Trag, Scissor (Oriental type - best), Dividers, Bees wax, Stitch marker, Straight knife, Clicker knife (curved blade).
From top left working clockwise
Scalpel blades, Sandpaper, Linen thread, Pencil, Needles in box, Single sided razor blade, Cotton Buds, Canvas strip, Straight edge/rule, Diamond pads.
With the above you can get by and make lots of things but the following make life much easier:-
From Top Left to Bottom Right:-
All sitting on - Cutting Mat. Right angle square, Cork Block, Cutting Rule, Rotary hole punch, Sharpening strop, Saddlers clam (home made).
“Laurel” cow sides from Le Prevo
I thought I would buy some to try - at 1 - 1.2 mm thickness it is a soft leather with a nice feel and texture. It has a nice sheen (less than the pic suggests) good for soft bags such a T - Base bags that need to be turned inside out.
This is chrome tanned so will not edge finish - you either leave then raw or will have to turn the edges over.
It would also be good for soft handbags, coin,coffee pouches and waistcoats or similar. For my tastes it is not firm enough for note book covers, credit card, phone holders etc.
I am going to make a cross body bag for Carol who wants just to put her phone, purse and credit cards in so small and discrete so that it could go under a coat. Will publish when finished.
The top right corner is a fair resemblance of colour. The back side is a soft nicely finished suede which is very acceptable without a lining.
Good value at circa £3.60 a foot including VAT and delivery
The small cross body bag is ideal for this soft leather as it is a T based bag that is sewn inside out and then turned. It has been voted a huge success in use.
